Here is my Garrard Zero 100S turntable for sale, which is in a very good condition, as you can see in the pictures. It is fully working! You can find about this turntable a lot of information and description in the internet, for example on Vinylengine’s site (Link below), so I won’t write about it. I uploaded photos whiches I took after the refurbisment, and some whiches I took before the refurbishment. It was in poor condition.
Even if you wouldn’t like to read the whole description, it is recommended, to read the NOTES below!
It’s condition is “sellers refurbish”. That means I took apart every moving parts, cleaned with IPA, and relubed it before I reassembled it (there was some tricky parts). I bought a new dustcover (custom made), because it came to me without it. The aluminium frame was scratched, so a professional rebrushed it. The paint flaked off some spot on the black frame (who the h*ll was who told that painted plastic is a good idea, instead of materially black plastic....), so I repainted it with matt black lacquer. I enveloped the inside of the plastic chassis with tar damping material to decrease the resonance frequency of the chassis. I changed the power cable, and the RCA interconnect cable. For the interconnect I chose Van Damme (268-006-000, link below) cable. I tried Chord Crimson cables (you can see in the pictures, the red ones), but it wasn’t flexible enough here. The RCA plugs on both side are made by Kácsa Audio (a best quality brand here in Hungary, Link below). The engineers tought that it is a good idea to place a pair of RCA socket on the end of the arm cable, just because of this it is very simple to change the interconnect cable. I think they were right, but these sockets were in bad condition, so I replace them with new ones. I made a DIY turntable mat from sef adhasive tar damping material and cork. (The idea is from the TNT-Audio-s website, where you can read some information about the Garrard Zero 100 SB model, which is the belt drive version of the Zero 100 S, so everthing else is the same, link below) Although these are 4-5mm-s together, there is a litle triangular shape “washer” (the carrier and the pickup came to me together with this “washer”) which tilts forward the pickup a bit, and fortunatelly this results that the top of the pickup is nearly paralel with the surface of the vinyl, if you use this mat. Of course I’ve got the original mat and the original cables as well. The counter weight, the switch selector button, and the ring on the top of the tonearm tower was oxidized, so i polished them by hand, and I repainted the sides of the switch selector button.
If you would like to see photos, I made a lot during the refurbishment, and uploaded them to Google Photos. (Link below)
Unfortunatelly in spite of the careful refurbishment, there are left some litle “fault”/“injury”:
- Some minor scratch left on the edge of the aluminium frame (see photos)
- The edge of the aluminium cover plates of the tonearm bearings, are a bit injured. I was very carefull, but if you want to take them off (and you have to, is you have to take it apart) it is almost inevitable. Not ugly, but noticable.
- Although I lubed the tonearmlift with speacial, thick grease, it is still not the best, so be carefull if you operate it by hand, the automatic knows what it should do!
For delivery I will pack the turntable carefully! I will remove the counterweight and platter, tie down the tonearm, and of course screw down the floating subschassis (You HAVE TO unscrew them to assure the subschassis to float freely!)
- VERY IMPORTANT! Never lift the turntable by only the aluminium frame! WHEN YOU TAKE IT FROM THE BOX, PLEASE GRAB THE ALUMINIUM FRAME WITH YOUR PALM, AND THE PLASTIC SUBSCHASSIS WITH YOUR FINGER SIMULTANEOUSLY!
- Although the turntable was made in England, so it was made for 230V, as I read in the user manual, it is able to wire in it to 110V as well! Please see the user manual at Vinylengine!
- Because this turntable use balanced RCA interconnect cable, you don’t have to use dedicated earth cable, unless you have to use a power cord with two wire in it. In this case you have to ground the turntable’s schassis to the pono stage’s enclosure. Also in this case you have to solder the short bare copper wire to the plate which holds the RCA sockets. You can see this in the picture, and you can read about it in the user manual (Link below). Now because the power cable has 3 wires, the schassis is gorunded properly. There is only a very little buzz (please see the video in the google photos folder named After refurbishment)
- Unfotrunatelly I haven’t got an ungrooved vinyl, so I just adjusted the anti skating to the nominal value. Please adjust it properly if you can!
- Before you put the platter on the spindle, it is highly recommended to lube the spinle and the bearing as well with the special oil, for example IsoKinetik ISOlube spindle oil (Link below)!
- Before you use the turntable, it is also a must, to do a tonearm set up!
Photos before the refurbishment:
Photos during the refurbishment:
Photos after the refurbishment:
Van-Damme interconnect cable: