This is my main system, which has changed significantly over the last few years. In July 20 we knocked a wall out in the basement to make one large room and it did wonders for the soundstage.  Half the room is mine but it’s open about 18 feet behind my chair.  The front wall is 12 feet wide but open to 15 feet 1/3 of the way in.

Speakers are 9 feet apart center-to-center and the front speaker baffles are 56 inches from the front wall and about 1 foot from the side walls.  Listening position is about 9 feet back and speakers are on GAIA I's and slightly toed in. GIK bass traps are on the walls, corners and ceiling, which resulted in a big improvement in soundstage.

What I’m seeking is a system that has great imaging and provides an emotional connection to the music.  I have tinnitus and mild hyperacusis so I’m not looking for the ultimate in detail.

I switched to Google mesh WiFi which allowed me to remove 50 ft of Ethernet from the ceiling and wall and noticed a nice uptick in clarity. I also added a fiber media converter that connects directly to the UpTone switch.

I’m keeping track of upgrades in a yearly timeline and hopefully the progression makes sense but it might be getting hard to follow.


Aric Audio Motherlode II; Zavfino Prima MKII SC


Second Rel S5/SHO, Puritan GroundMaster CITY, FMC (TP-Link MC220L) with iFi iPower2, switched to Google mesh network, GIK 2A Alpha Pro Series Panel Diffuser/Absorber


Pass XA25, Puritan Audio Labs PSM156, Uptone Audio etherREGEN, UltraCap LPS-1.2, Supra 8, Audio Archon PCs, Bricasti M3 (MDX upgrade)


Rel S5/SHO, Wireworld Silver Starlight 7 S/PDIF (CD >> DAC)


PS Audio DirectStream Jr.


LTA MicroZOTL2, Tekton DI


Cambridge Audio Azure 851N, Parasound A21


Rega P3-24 w/ Denon DL-110 cart


B&K ST2140, Paradigm Monitor 9, Arcam CD72


Velodyne VA-1215X, Aperture 16 SC


Rotel RC-980BX, Rotel RB-970BX, entry level Transparent and Straightwire ICs, AudioQuest Type 4 SC, Panamax 1000


Scott 335R Receiver, mail order speaker kit (labeled as Advent), Technics turntable, Akai tape deck


Room Details

Dimensions: 29’ × 15’  Large
Ceiling: 7’

Components Toggle details

    • Bricasti Design M3
    • Aric Audio Motherlode II
    • Pass Labs XA25
    • Arcam Diva CD72
    • Tekton Design Double Impact
    Upgraded version
    • REL Acoustics S5/SHO
    Subwoofer x 2
    • Puritan Audio Labs PSM156
    Line conditioner/surge protection
    • Puritan Audio Labs GroudMaster CITY
    Grounds PSM156 to earth
    • Audio Archon PCs
    Green, Blue and Reference cables upgraded to the FI-28 plug.
    • Zavfino Prima MKII SC
    Speaker Cable
    • Cerious Technologies Graphene Extreme
    • UpTone Audio EtherREGEN
    Network switch to clean up ethernet noise
    • UpTone Audio UltraCap LPS-1.2
    Power supply for etherREGEN
    • Supra Cables Cat 8
    Ethernet cable
    • IsoAcoustics GAIA1 Isolation Supports
    Speaker isolation
    • IsoAcoustics OREA
    Component isolation, various sizes
    • GIK Acoustics Various Bass Traps
    Tri-Trap Corner Bass Trap, 244 Bass Traps, Acoustic Art Panels, 2A Alpha Pro Series Panel Diffusor/Absorber

Comments 11

The MZ2 is only one watt into 4 ohms and the A21 is 400 watts into 4 ohms.  I think the MZ2 amp section should be used as a headphone amp only, or a pre to virtually any other amp.  I say "virtually any other amp" because the output impedance is only 2 ohms and should match with any amp regardless of the amps input impedance.

I put about 120 hours on the MZ2 amp section and still found the sound thin.  I see real potential if it had 20 or 30 watts (or more).  Even though the sound was much thinner than the A21, it still had good air and space.  The sound signature was definitely different - in a good way.  It was what I expect to hear from a good tube amp. The potential is there but the watts were not.  At 12 o'clock on the dial the MZ2 was putting out about 70 dB.  I would definitely consider the more powerful LTA amp offerings if I were in the market.  I would love to hear shootout between the A21 and ZOTL10.  Hope this answers your question.


When I mentioned about "comparison", it was more in the sense of - Watts being equal, how does the ZOTL technology compare with JFET technology? IS the sound more sweet, open, etc. Of course the A21 is more powerful. But the Tekton is fairly efficient and if you match the MicroZotl with Parasound how does the sound compare?
BTW, in your system (at least the pics), the Tektons do not look overbearing as they do in some systems, which is a good thing.


If you are talking about comparing the 3 watts from the MicroZOTL2 to the A21, then there's no comparison. The A21 is light years ahead, at least in my system. The MZ2 as an amp sounds fairly anemic.  But as a pre MZ2 is fantastic. However, the MZ2 is a fantastic headphone amp, although I seldom listen to headphones. 


I had considered the Tektons. And I see that we have at least 2 components in common - the Parasound and the BrickWall.
How would you compare the sound of the Parasound Vs the MicroZOTL2 with the Tektons? BTW, your room looks very nice and cozy!


The 851N is being used as a streamer and DAC and connected to the MicroZOTL2. I tried it direct and did not care for the sound on my system. As a passive pre, the 851N was very detailed but dry and 2 dimensional. Just my impression but could be different on another system. 


Hi I have a very similar setup. 
I believe your 851N is being use as a preamp controlling volume as well? 
Hooked up directly to the Parasound? 


The use of AWG 10 gauge copper presents the lowest and most economical solution to reducing the line loss (copper loss) during bass transients. I say economical because at AWG 8, the wire becomes very visible.

Now, grouping:

The use of type SOOW cord is elegant because it firstly is waterproof and very flexible. Using AWG 10, 4-Conductor means one piece of rubber from amplifier chain to the speaker terminals. This, is because you are bi-amplifying on the same speaker housing. Professional sound reinforcement contractors tend towards the SOOW solution as it is the neatest to bind and solves the voltage drop issue. Usually, SOOW is found in power cords, where the "3-Conductor" variety serves. Bi-amped speakers go real well with the
"4-Conductor," (RED, BLK, WHT, GRN), and the choice of inner and outer insulation(s) (different, but unique) makes for a good assembly dressage.


nothing wrong with that setup, your wife needs a hobby of her own.
Single wire run with high quality jumper wire. Cheers


That's about the cleanest wire/cable setup I've seen.  Maybe you should replace the wife....J/K !!!


Thanks mjcmt.  It's a fun hobby, but not cheap.


Good stuff! Love the choices you made on the electronics.


Showing all 11 posts